Being a mother, I was astounded at how much smoke there is in the restaurants, even if you request a non-smoking area. You come home smelling like ashtray. If you've been missing those smoky bars back home, you'll love Japan!
Trains with reserved seating (shinkansen/bullet trains) and a few others (the JR line from Narita) have no smoking cars. Hotels have non smoking rooms, as well. Be sure to ask for them.
I was amazed, coming from the fresh air of the Pacific Northwest to have so many smokers around.
On base, the restaurants are non smoking, and you'll find designated smoking areas.
Cigarettes are easily found in vending machines, even on base. The SRF lobby has one. The NEX sells them by the carton and single pack, as well.
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